A city of love and warmth, sorrow and despair, dreams and hopes, poverty and squalor, grandeur and glory, Calcutta is compelling, effervescent, teeming with life and traditions a medley of moods, styles, cultures, politics, industry and commerce.

More than 300 years ago, Job Charnock, an English tradesman set up a trading post on the banks of the Ganga along the three-village nucleus. Gradually Europeans started setting up business and trade establishments, the moneyed class taking interest in banking and usury. The East India Company steadily encroached into matters of state.

The fate of the Nawabi rule was sealed in the Battle of Plassey and the English went ahead to seize power, a grip which loosened only 250 years later when power was transferred from the British Empire to the Indians.

Independent India has crossed 50 years and these five decades have seen many miracles. Calcutta has grown, remains a city of contrasts, a mix-up of light and shade, a strange medley of ancient and modern, skyscrapers and Victorian edifices, heaven of the rich and the poor as seldom found anywhere in the world.

There is so much to see in this incredible city. A million people from every corner of India stream across the massive Howrah Bridge, swarm around the Hooghly river, flock along the busy avenues, through its narrow lanes. Then you arrive at the great expanse of the Maidan, the heart of Calcutta.

Fort William, Victoria Memorial, Raj Bhavan, Palladian villas and the Botanical Gardens, the busy streets of Shyambazar, College Street and Kalighat, bookshops, art galleries, coffee houses all are part of Calcutta's varied and vibrant shades, the birthplace of Rabindranath Tagore and cradle of the Indian Renaissance.

Calcutta's fascination defies analysis. It is an addiction, an affair of the mind and heart. Anyone who has lived here can never be happy anywhere else in the world...

Densely populated and polluted, Kolkata is often an ugly and desperate place that to many people sums up the worst of India. Yet it's also one of the country's more fascinating centres and has some scenes of rare beauty. Certainly the people are a friendly bunch and Bengali humour is renowned throughout India.

During the British Raj Kolkata was known as the Jewel of the East and was the capital of the country till 1911. It still bears the Victorian imprint on its streets and structures. Today, it is still the most important city in the east, the nerve center of trade and industry of the State.

Economically, Kolkata is suffering: the port has been silting up, making navigation from Kolkata down to the sea steadily more difficult and limiting the size of ships that can use the port. Electrical power in Kolkata is so on-again off-again that virtually every hotel, shop or small business has to have some sort of standby power generator or battery lighting system.

Despite all these problems Kolkata is a city with a soul, and one which many residents are inordinately fond of. The Bengalis, so ready to raise arms against the British in the struggle for independence, are also the poets and artists of India.

Amongst the squalor and confusion Kolkata has place of sheer magic: flower sellers beside the misty, ethereal Hooghly River; the majestic sweep of the Maidan; the arrogant bulk of the Victoria Memorial; the superb collection of archaeological treasures exhibited in the Indian Museum. They are all part of this amazing city, as are massive Marxist and trade union rallies which can block traffic in the city centre for hours at a time.

History

Kolkata is not an ancient city like Delhi, with its impressive relics of the past. In fact, it's largely a British creation which dates back only some 300 years and was the capital of British India until the beginning of this century.

In 1686, the British abandoned Hooghly, their trading post 38km up the Hooghly River from present-day Kolkata, and moved downriver to there small villages - Sutanati, Govindpur and Kailkata. Kolkata takes its name from the last of those three tiny settlements.

Much of the Kolkata's most enduring development took place between 1780 and 1820. Latter in the 19th century, Bengal became an important centre in the struggle for Indian independence, and this was a major reason for the decision to transfer the capital to Delhi in 1911. Loss of political power did not alter Kolkata's economic control, and the city continued to prosper until after WW11.

Orientation

Kolkata sprawls north-south along the eastern bank of the Hooghly River, which divides it from Howrah on the western bank. If you arrive from anywhere west of Kolkata by rail, you'll come into the immense Howrah Station and have to cross the Howrah Bridge into Kolkata proper.

The more relevant parts of Kolkata are south of the bridge in the areas around BBD Bagh and Chowringhee.

Victoria Memorial

A splendid architectural structure in white marble, modeled on the Taj Mahal, was built in the early 20th century. In memory of Queen Victoria and was formally inaugurated by the Prince of Wales in 1921 who later became King Edward VIII of England. The stately bronze statue of the queen near the entrance, the brass canons, wrought iron street lamps, manicured lawns, gardens and pathways, the magical lighting effect in the evening and a fairy tale 'Fountain of Joy' facing the memorial building create an atmosphere of unforgettable charm.

Indian Museum

This museum was established in 1878 on Jawaharlal Nehru Road. The museum is built in Italian architectural style and is considered as the largest museum in the country and one of the best in Asia. The largest museum in the country, the museum has six sections: Art, Archaeology, Anthropology, Geology, Zoology and Industry (economic botany). From the Egyptian mummy to the skeleton of the whale and some rare statues; the museum has every thing. One of the rooms has a collection of meteorites. The museum also has a unique fossil collection of prehistoric animals which includes a giant crocodile and a huge tortoise. The art collection has many fine pieces from Orissa and other temples and superb example of Buddhist Gandharan art.

Eden Gardens

In the North-West corner of the Maidan are small & pleasantly laid out Eden Gardens. The gardens were created in 1840 and named after the sister of Lord Auckland, the former governor general. The idea was to make a Biblical - style garden of Eden in India. The expanse dotted with beautiful trees and shrubs is intersected by winding paths, and there is a large artificial lake. Alongside the gardens, is the world famous Eden Gardens cricket stadium. The stadium is supposed to be the largest in Asia with a seating capacity of more than a lakh spectators. The Kolkata cricket ground, where International test & one day matches are held, is also with in the gardens. Near the gardens you can take a pleasant walk along the bank of hoogly river.

Maidan & Fort William

After the events of 1756, the British decided there would be no repetition of the attack on the city and set out to replace the original Fort William, in the Maidan , with a massive and impregnable new fort. First they cleared out the inhabitants of the village of Govindpur and in 1758 laid the foundations of a fort. Around the fort a huge expanse of jungle was cut down to give the cannons a clear line of fire but, as usually happens, the fort has never fired a shot in anger. The fort is still in use today and visitors are only allowed inside with special permission. Even the trenches and deep fortifications surrounding the fort's massive walls seem to be out of bounds. The area cleared around Fort William became the Maidan, the 'lungs' of modern Kolkata. This huge green expanse stretches three km north to south and is over a km wide. It is bound by Strand Rd along the river to the west and by Chowringhee Rd, lined with shops, offices, hotels and eating places, to the east. The stream known as Tolly's Nullah forms its southern boundary, and here you will find a racecourse and the Victoria Memorial. In the north-west corner of the Maidan is Eden Gardens, while Raj Bhavan overlooks it from the north.

Ochterlony Monuments

Now officially renamed the Shahid Minar, this 48m column tower over the northern end of the Maidan. It was erected in 1828 and named after Sir David Ochterlony, who is credited with winning the Nepal War. The column is an intriguing combination of Turkish, Egyptian and Syrian architectural elements. There's a fine view from the top of the column, but permission to ascend must be obtained from police headquarters, which is on Lal Bazaar St. It's only open Monday to Friday and you should simply ask for a 'monument pass' at the Assistant Commissioner's office on the 2nd floor.

St Paul's Cathedral

Built between 1839 and 1847, St Paul's Cathedral is one of India's most important churches. It's east of the Victoria Memorial at the South end of the Maidan. The steeple fell during an earthquake in 1897 and was redesigned and rebuilt. Inside there's some interesting memorials and stained glass, including the west window by Sir Edward Burne-Jones. It's open to visitors from 9 am to noon, and from 3 to 6 pm. Sunday services are at 7.30 and 8.30 am, and 6 pm.

Howrah Bridge

It is one of three bridges on the river Hooghly and is the most famous symbol of not only Kolkata but also West Bengal. Until 1943, the Hooghly River was crossed by a pontoon bridge which had to be opened to let river traffic through. There was considerable opposition to construction of a bridge due to fears that it would affect the river currents and cause silting problems. This problem was eventually avoided by building a bridge that crosses the river in a single 450m span - there are no pylons at all within the river. The cantilevered bridge, also known as Rabindra Setu, is similar in size to the Sydney Harbour Bridge but carries a flow of traffic which Sydney could never dream of .It is the busiest bridge in the world. It's intriguing to stand at one end of the bridge at morning rush hour and watch the procession of double-decker buses come across. They heel over like yachts in a heavy wind due to the weight of passengers hanging onto the sides. In between are lumbering bullock carts, hordes of bicycles and even the odd car. The ferries running from below Howrah Station are a more convenient way to cross the river and give you a good view of the bridge.

Birla Planetarium

This planetarium, near the government of India tourist office, is one of the largest in the world and is located on Kolkata's Eastern metropolitan bypass. There are shows in English everyday. This 21st century marvel of science, communication and environment is the first and only institution of its kind in India. Set amidst trees and lawns, here one finds science out of doors and alive.

BBD Bagh ( Dalhousie Square )

When Kolkata was the administrative centre for British India, BBD Bagh was the centre of power. On the north side of the square stands the huge Writers' Building, which dates from 1880. The East India Company's writers have now been replaced by modern-day ones employed by the West Bengal state government, and this is where all the quintuplicate forms, carbon copies and red ink come from. Also on BBD Bagh is a rather more useful place, the Kolkata GPO, and on the eastern side of the square is the West Bengal tourist office.

Kali Temple

Rebuilt in 1809 on the site of a much older temple. Kalighat ( as it is also known ) is the actual temple from which Kalikata takes its name. According to legend, when Siva's wife's corpse was cut up, one of her fingers fell here. Since then it has been an important pilgrimage site. Kali represents the destructive side of Siva's consort and demands daily sacrifices. In the morning goats have their throats slit here to satisfy the goddess' bloodlust. During the day many poor people come here for a free feed. This is an extremely busy temple. Mother Teresa's Hospital for the Dying Destitute right next door to the temple and you are welcome to visit. The temple is about two km directly south of St Paul's Cathedral and is easily accessible by metro.

Marble Palace

On Muktaram Babu St, a narrow lane off Chittaranjan Ave, this private mansion was built in 1835 by a Bengali zamindar. The palace houses an incongruous collection of curious standing alongside significant statues and paintings. There's a private zoo here too, but the inhabitants are only slightly more animated than the marble lions gracing the palace lawns. It's open daily except Monday and Thursday from 10 am to 4 pm, and entry is free with a permit from the Government of India tourist office.

Zoo & Horticultural Gardens

South of the Maidan, Kolkata's 16 hectare zoo was opened in 1875. Some of the animals are displayed in near natural environments, others in the pitiful conditions characteristics of Third World zoos. It's open from sunrise to sunset. Just south of the zoo on Alipore Rd are the pleasant and quiet horticultural gardens. They are open from 8 am to 5 pm.

Nehru Children's Museum

This small museum, conveniently situated at 94/1 Chowringhee Rd, is worth visiting for its models depicting the Hindu epics, the Ramayana and Mahabharata. It's open daily except Monday from 11.30 am to 8.30 pm.

St John's Church

A little south of BBD Bagh is the Church of St John, which dates from 1787. The overgrown graveyard here has a number of interesting monuments , including the octagonal mausoleum of Job Charnock, founder of Kolkata, who died in 1692. Admiral Waston, who supported Clive in retalking Kolkata from Siraj-ud-daula, is also buried here. The obelisk commemorating the black hole was moved from near the GPO to a corner of this graveyard.

Botanical Gardens

The extensive Botanical Gardens, on the west bank of the Hoogly river, stretch forever 1 km along the river and occupy 109 hectares. The gardens were originally founded in 1786 and administered by Colonel Kyd. It was from these gardens that the tea now grown in Assam and Darjeeling was first developed. Trees of the rarest kinds, from Nepal, Brazil, Penang, Java and Sumatra can be found here. There are towering Mahogany trees, an avenue of Cuban Palms and an Orchid House. Mango and Tamarind trees shade the grassy lawns. But the main attraction of the garden is the 200 year old Banyan Tree, claimed to have the second largest canopy in the world. It is the world's largest, having a circumference of 330m. The Palm House in the centre of gardens is also well worth a visit. The gardens are over the Howrah Bridge, 19Km by bus from Chowringhee. The gardens are open from sunrise to sunset, and although they tend to be very crowded on Sunday, on other days they are peaceful and make a pleasant escape from the hassles and crowd of Kolkata.

Nicco Park

Nicco Park is situated at Salt Lake. This Amusement park is the Disneyland of West Bengal, with a variety of unusual games and rides. The Cave Ride is the latest addition and is the only of its kind in this part of the world. The park is open to the public from 10.00 AM to 8.00 PM everyday during the winter and 11.00 AM to 9.00 PM everyday during the rest of the year.

Vidyasagar Setu

Vidyasagar Setu a golden Gate Bridge look alike, 2kms downriver, was completed in 1994. It is a modern day engineering marvel and is the largest cable stayed bridge in Asia. The bridge connects the twin cities of Kolkata and Howrah. It was built at a cost of Rs. 388 crores. Unfortunately it is not making the big difference that was envisaged, as the approaches are too narrow to to handle the amount of traffic that use bridge, and plans for widening the road are slow in implementation.

Pareshnath Jain Temple

This temple, in the north-east of the city, was built in 1867 and dedicated to Sheetalnathji, the 10th of the 24 Jain tirthankars. The temple is an ornate mass of mirrors, coloured stones and glass mosaics. It overlooks a garden, and is open daily from 6 to 11.30 am and 3 to 7 pm.

Belur Math

North of the city, on the west bank of the Hooghly River, is the headquarters of the Ramkrishna Mission, Belur Math. Ramakrishna, an Indian philosopher, preached the unity of all religions. He died in 1886, and his follower Swami Vivekananda founded the Ramakrishna Mission in 1897. There are now branches all over India. Belur Math, the movement's international headquarters, was founded in 1899. It is supposed to represent a church, a mosque and a temple, depending on how you look at Belur Math is open daily from 6.30 to 11 am and from 3.30 to 7 pm, and admission is free. The Mission's Institute of Culture, which has a library, reading rooms and lecture halls, is in the south of the city near Dhakuria railway station.

Nakhoda Mosque

North of BBD Bagh, this is Kolkata's principal Muslim place worship. Built in 1926, the huge Nakhoda Mosque is said to accommodate 10,000 people and was modelled on Akbar's tomb at Sikandra near Agra. The red sandstone mosque has two 46m minarets and a brightly painted onion-shaped dome. Outside the mosque, every day except Sunday, you can buy attar, which is perfume made from essential oils and flower fragrances.

National Library

The sprawling structure of the National Library, with a , most imposing facade and staircases in Belverde near Alipore houses collection of precious books in India. It is the biggest in India.

Science City

It is located on Kolkata's Eastern Metropolitan Bypass. This 21st century marvel of science, communication and environment is the first and only institution of its kind in India. The pioneering effort of NCSM, in setting up open air Science Parks has now added a new dimension to science teaching through a process of discovery in the outdoor setting. Set amidst trees and lawns, here one finds science out of doors and alive

Birla Mandir

Located on Ashutosh Chowdhary Avenue, it is the latest addition to the places of visit in Kolkata. Built over twenty- two years of painstaking labour, it is an all marble structure with very high quality Rajasthani engravings.

Zoological Gardens

Kolkata's interesting zoo-the oldest in India-was the creation of Sir Richard Carnac Temple who was Governor of Bengal from 1874 to 1877. It was opened on Jan 1st 1876, by the Prince of Wales. The 16 hectare grounds house a wide species of animals & birds including the rare white Bengal Tiger. There is a separate reptile house and a children's zoo. Migratory birds find sanctuary on a small lake in the zoo every winter. The gardens are open from 6 a.m. To 5 p.m. daily. The Zoological Gardens at Alipore opened to the public in 1876, have one of the finest collections of birds, animals, and reptiles. Within the Gardens, there is also a childrens' Zoo. The aquarium in front of the Zoological Gardens contains sea-fishes of rare varieties.

Nalban Boating Complex

Located in the heart of Salt lake city (a satellite township) just 12 kms. away from central Kolkata, Nalban is a beautiful picnic spot for families who would want to spend a few hours in the quiet greenery, away from the busy city. The main attraction of the place is the four hundred acre picturesque lake with various kinds of boating facilities like paddle boats, shikaras and rowing boats. A unique added attraction is the newly installed hovercraft.

Saheed Minar

This 165 ft. High monument was erected by public subscription in 1828, to honour Sir David Ochter Lony, a one- time resident of Malwa & Rajputana. More recently, it has now been renamed 'Saheed Minar' to honour the martyrs of the freedom struggle. An important landmark in Kolkata, it is located at the Northern end of the Maidan.

Jorasanko Tagore House

The rambling old Tagore House is a centre for Indian dance, drama, music and other arts. This is the birthplace of Rabindranath Tagore, India's greatest poet, and his final resting place. It's just off Rabindra Sarani, north of BBD Bagh, and is open Monday to Friday 10 am to 5 pm, Saturday upto 2 pm (closef Sunday).There is a daily Bengali sound-and-light show at 6 and 7 pm.

Rabindra Sadan

Situated on the southeast corner of the Maidan. The Rabindra Sadan is the seat of Bengali - culture where every evening, drama cultural programmes & exhibitions are held.